August 8, 2002 -- Critic's absence feeds a buzz

HUNGRY for gustatory gossip? Foodies are dishing about
the fate of powerful New York Times restaurant critic
William "Biff" Grimes.

Since Grimes went on a mysterious personal leave in
mid-June, rumors are rampant that he might not return to the
Times, where his weekly reviewing duties have been
temporarily covered by Eric Asimov. Some insiders blame
his absence on a project he's been working on. Others
whisper that he is ill. Still others say he'll definitely be back,
but no one knows when.

When we put the question to the Times, the paper's
spokesman, Toby Usnik, e-mailed us this cryptic response:
"Per your query on Mr. Grimes, his leave is personal, the
duration is uncertain and I am not aware of any reason for
us to be discussing a succession."

Grimes himself could not be reached. But one reason given
for his absence is that he's been busy curating "New York
Eats Out" at the New York Public Library, an exhibition that
covers the city's restaurant scene from the 1900s to the
early 1960s.

But some sources believe Grimes won't be back, and rumors
abound about people supposedly under consideration for the
job. Possible candidates to succeed him are said to include
Asimov, Saveur magazine editor in chief Coleman Andrews
and 30-year-old Times Sunday magazine food scribe
Amanda Hesser.

If Grimes isn't coming back, for whatever reason, restaurant
writers hungry for his position - previously held by current
Gourmet magazine editor in chief Ruth Reichl - should keep
in mind the paper's strict standards about kitchen criticism.
Mimi Sheraton, the Times top foodie from 1976 to 1984,
exposed the dark side.

"I could never put my picture on a book jacket," she told us
yesterday. "I could never show my face on television, and I
never went to any party or exhibit where I could be
photographed or where anyone else in the industry was. I
wore wigs and glasses long before anyone else did, but
people get to know you anyway. They know your body, they
know your husband."

As for the Grimes mystery, Sheraton said, "I've heard he
was writing a book, and I've heard that he was working on
something for the library. I can't believe that they're looking
for someone else, because I think I would have heard about
that."

One source in the Times dining section says Grimes was
spotted in the building just a few days ago. "I've seen him
here around," says our mole. "But I haven't heard anything
about when he's supposed to come back."

- alex 8-08-2002 6:21 pm [add a comment]