nytimes today
March 25, 2009, 12:08 PM
An Almost-Meatless Diet
A recent report from The Archives of Internal Medicine found that regular eaters of red meat had a modestly higher risk of dying during a 10-year study period than those who ate very little meat. And beyond personal health, many people are finding other reasons to eat less meat. Several reports now say meat consumption contributes to global warming, and regular reports about animal cruelty and the meat industry have caused many people to lose their appetite for meat. At the same time, meat tastes good, and many people don’t want to become full vegetarians.
As a result, some people are trying to cut back on meat, but not give it up altogether. While it sounds simple, eating a little meat can sometimes be harder than eating none at all.
“Vegetarian recipes and traditions are everywhere,” writes my colleague Mark Bittman, who counts himself as a meat-eater who has scaled back. “But in the American style of eating — with meat usually at the center of the plate — it can be difficult to eat two ounces of beef and call it dinner.”
Now there’s a new cookbook for the reluctant meat eater who doesn’t want to go vegetarian: “Almost Meatless: Recipes That Are Better for Your Health and the Planet,” by Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond (Ten Speed Press).
Ms. Manning, who was a vegetarian from the age of 14 until 26, said the idea for the book began when she realized that she was eating a lot of processed “vegetarian junk food.”
“I came to the conclusion that an almost-meatless diet was healthier, tastier, and more ethical,” said Ms. Manning, now 31. “I didn’t want to dive into the meat-centric meals that are typical of most non-vegetarians.” Notably, Ms. Manning said she lost weight after adding a little meat back into her diet.
Below, I’ve included three “Almost Meatless” recipes: Chicken and Biscuit Pot Pie; Corn and Cod Cakes; and Springtime Spaghetti Carbonara.
Chicken and Biscuit Pot Pie
Serves 6 to 8
Stew Ingredients
2 bone-in, skin-on chicken legs, with thighs and drumsticks separated (about 2 pounds total)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 pounds leeks (about 3 very large), white and light green parts only, cut in half lengthwise and then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
1/4 cup whole milk
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 sprig rosemary
4 cloves garlic, halved, peeled and smashed
1 cup 1/2-inch carrot chunks (about 2 small carrots)
1 cup diced parsnips (about 2 medium parsnips)
1 cup diced fennel (about 1/2 small bulb)
4 ounces green beans, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces (1 cup)
3 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves (optional)
Topping Ingredients
1-1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup wheat bran
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh chives or minced scallions
6 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1. To make the stew, rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Season both sides of the pieces with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, skin side down, and cook for about 5 minutes, until nicely browned. Flip the pieces over and brown the other side, for an additional 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
2. Add the leeks and sauté in the chicken fat for about 7 minutes, until softened. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Whisk in the wine, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the stock, milk, thyme, bay leaves, rosemary and garlic. Return the chicken to the pot, adding any reserved juices. Cover and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken is fully cooked and just starting to fall off the bone.
3. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and remove the skin. Discard the bay leaves, rosemary and thyme sprigs. Add the carrots, parsnips, fennel and green beans to the pot. Add the tarragon if you wish. Return the stew to a simmer and season with salt and pepper to taste. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred the meat from the bones and add the meat back to the stew. Discard the bones.
4. To make the biscuit topping, preheat the oven to 425°F. Whisk together the flour, bran, baking powder, baking soda, salt, pepper and chives in a bowl. Gently work the cold butter into the dry ingredients, rubbing it together as if you were snapping your fingers. Take care not to overwork the mixture or melt the butter with the warmth of your hands. Once all the butter has been incorporated, add the yogurt and stir just enough to bring the mixture together, forming a damp dough.
5. Ladle the chicken mixture equally into six heatproof bowls. Drop the biscuit dough by the tablespoonful across the surface of the stew in each bowl. Transfer to the oven and bake for 20 minutes, or until the dough is just golden on top. (Alternatively, leave the chicken mixture in the Dutch oven. Drop the biscuit dough across the surface of the stew, transfer to the oven, and bake for 20 minutes, or until the dough is just golden on top. Serve directly from the pot.)
Corn and Cod Cakes
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
1/2 pound cod fillet (choose Pacific cod; overfishing of cod from the Atlantic is destroying ocean habitat. Pacific sole, U.S.-farmed tilapia and crab can all be substituted.)
1 tablespoon canola oil, plus 1 teaspoon
Salt and pepper
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 tablespoon butter
1 slice thick-cut bacon, minced
1 roasted red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
1/4 small onion, minced (about 1/4 cup)
1 egg, beaten
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves
Canola oil for pan frying the cakes
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a rimmed baking sheet. Brush the cod with the 1 tablespoon canola oil, season with salt and pepper, and place on the prepared sheet. Toss the corn with the 1 teaspoon oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Spread on a second rimmed sheet. Bake both for 8 minutes, or until the cod flakes easily. Set aside to cool.
2. Put the potato in cold salted water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until fork-tender. Mash the potato and butter coarsely with a hand-held masher.
3. Cook the bacon over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the bacon is crisp and the fat has rendered. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel and set aside. Sauté the bell pepper and onion in the fat for 5 to 8 minutes, until softened. Add the corn and sauté for an additional 1 to 2 minutes (the corn tends to pop, so be careful). Allow to cool.
4. Beat the egg in a large bowl. Add the cod, potatoes, bacon, onion–corn–bell pepper mixture, bread crumbs, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Use a 1/4-cup dry measuring cup to form the mixture into 1/2-inch-thick cakes. Refrigerate for at least one hour, or up to one day.
5. To cook the cod cakes, heat 1/4 inch of canola oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Fry the cakes in batches, for about 3 minutes per side. Serve the cod cakes with or over baby greens with vinaigrette drizzled on top.
Springtime Spaghetti Carbonara
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
3 slices bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1/2 pound English peas, shelled (about 1 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen peas
1 pound spaghetti
4 ounces asparagus, sliced diagonally 1/8-inch thick (1 cup)
10 fresh basil leaves, sliced thin
5 eggs, whisked, at room temperature
2 tablespoons whole milk
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish (2 ounces)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add the bacon, cooking for about 5 minutes, until crispy. Transfer the cooked bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper towel and set aside. Return the pan with the rendered fat to the stove top for future use.
2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the peas into the water and cook them for 5 minutes. Transfer them to a strainer with a slotted spoon or a spider basket. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook for 10 minutes, or until al dente.
3. While the pasta cooks, heat the bacon fat in the sauté pan over medium heat. Add the peas and asparagus, and sauté for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the basil, and set aside.
4. Whisk together the eggs and milk. Have the egg mixture, vegetables and bacon ready to toss with very hot pasta.
5. Quickly drain the pasta and transfer immediately to a large serving bowl. Pour the eggs and cheese on top of the pasta, and toss vigorously to coat the strands and gently cook the eggs, forming a creamy sauce. Add the vegetables and bacon, and continue tossing to incorporate them. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Portion the spaghetti on plates and ladle any sauce left in the bowl over each serving. Grate additional cheese on top if you like.
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March 25, 2009, 12:08 PM
An Almost-Meatless Diet
A recent report from The Archives of Internal Medicine found that regular eaters of red meat had a modestly higher risk of dying during a 10-year study period than those who ate very little meat. And beyond personal health, many people are finding other reasons to eat less meat. Several reports now say meat consumption contributes to global warming, and regular reports about animal cruelty and the meat industry have caused many people to lose their appetite for meat. At the same time, meat tastes good, and many people don’t want to become full vegetarians.
As a result, some people are trying to cut back on meat, but not give it up altogether. While it sounds simple, eating a little meat can sometimes be harder than eating none at all.
“Vegetarian recipes and traditions are everywhere,” writes my colleague Mark Bittman, who counts himself as a meat-eater who has scaled back. “But in the American style of eating — with meat usually at the center of the plate — it can be difficult to eat two ounces of beef and call it dinner.”
Now there’s a new cookbook for the reluctant meat eater who doesn’t want to go vegetarian: “Almost Meatless: Recipes That Are Better for Your Health and the Planet,” by Joy Manning and Tara Mataraza Desmond (Ten Speed Press).
Ms. Manning, who was a vegetarian from the age of 14 until 26, said the idea for the book began when she realized that she was eating a lot of processed “vegetarian junk food.”
“I came to the conclusion that an almost-meatless diet was healthier, tastier, and more ethical,” said Ms. Manning, now 31. “I didn’t want to dive into the meat-centric meals that are typical of most non-vegetarians.” Notably, Ms. Manning said she lost weight after adding a little meat back into her diet.
Below, I’ve included three “Almost Meatless” recipes: Chicken and Biscuit Pot Pie; Corn and Cod Cakes; and Springtime Spaghetti Carbonara.
- Skinny 3-25-2009 9:27 pm
Chicken and Biscuit Pot Pie
Serves 6 to 8
Stew Ingredients
2 bone-in, skin-on chicken legs, with thighs and drumsticks separated (about 2 pounds total)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 pounds leeks (about 3 very large), white and light green parts only, cut in half lengthwise and then crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock
1/4 cup whole milk
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
1 sprig rosemary
4 cloves garlic, halved, peeled and smashed
1 cup 1/2-inch carrot chunks (about 2 small carrots)
1 cup diced parsnips (about 2 medium parsnips)
1 cup diced fennel (about 1/2 small bulb)
4 ounces green beans, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces (1 cup)
3 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves (optional)
Topping Ingredients
1-1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup wheat bran
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh chives or minced scallions
6 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1. To make the stew, rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Season both sides of the pieces with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, skin side down, and cook for about 5 minutes, until nicely browned. Flip the pieces over and brown the other side, for an additional 5 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.
2. Add the leeks and sauté in the chicken fat for about 7 minutes, until softened. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Whisk in the wine, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the stock, milk, thyme, bay leaves, rosemary and garlic. Return the chicken to the pot, adding any reserved juices. Cover and simmer for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken is fully cooked and just starting to fall off the bone.
3. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and remove the skin. Discard the bay leaves, rosemary and thyme sprigs. Add the carrots, parsnips, fennel and green beans to the pot. Add the tarragon if you wish. Return the stew to a simmer and season with salt and pepper to taste. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, shred the meat from the bones and add the meat back to the stew. Discard the bones.
4. To make the biscuit topping, preheat the oven to 425°F. Whisk together the flour, bran, baking powder, baking soda, salt, pepper and chives in a bowl. Gently work the cold butter into the dry ingredients, rubbing it together as if you were snapping your fingers. Take care not to overwork the mixture or melt the butter with the warmth of your hands. Once all the butter has been incorporated, add the yogurt and stir just enough to bring the mixture together, forming a damp dough.
5. Ladle the chicken mixture equally into six heatproof bowls. Drop the biscuit dough by the tablespoonful across the surface of the stew in each bowl. Transfer to the oven and bake for 20 minutes, or until the dough is just golden on top. (Alternatively, leave the chicken mixture in the Dutch oven. Drop the biscuit dough across the surface of the stew, transfer to the oven, and bake for 20 minutes, or until the dough is just golden on top. Serve directly from the pot.)
Corn and Cod Cakes
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
1/2 pound cod fillet (choose Pacific cod; overfishing of cod from the Atlantic is destroying ocean habitat. Pacific sole, U.S.-farmed tilapia and crab can all be substituted.)
1 tablespoon canola oil, plus 1 teaspoon
Salt and pepper
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
1/2 tablespoon butter
1 slice thick-cut bacon, minced
1 roasted red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 1 cup)
1/4 small onion, minced (about 1/4 cup)
1 egg, beaten
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/4 cup loosely packed fresh parsley leaves
Canola oil for pan frying the cakes
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Oil a rimmed baking sheet. Brush the cod with the 1 tablespoon canola oil, season with salt and pepper, and place on the prepared sheet. Toss the corn with the 1 teaspoon oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Spread on a second rimmed sheet. Bake both for 8 minutes, or until the cod flakes easily. Set aside to cool.
2. Put the potato in cold salted water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until fork-tender. Mash the potato and butter coarsely with a hand-held masher.
3. Cook the bacon over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the bacon is crisp and the fat has rendered. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel and set aside. Sauté the bell pepper and onion in the fat for 5 to 8 minutes, until softened. Add the corn and sauté for an additional 1 to 2 minutes (the corn tends to pop, so be careful). Allow to cool.
4. Beat the egg in a large bowl. Add the cod, potatoes, bacon, onion–corn–bell pepper mixture, bread crumbs, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Use a 1/4-cup dry measuring cup to form the mixture into 1/2-inch-thick cakes. Refrigerate for at least one hour, or up to one day.
5. To cook the cod cakes, heat 1/4 inch of canola oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Fry the cakes in batches, for about 3 minutes per side. Serve the cod cakes with or over baby greens with vinaigrette drizzled on top.
Springtime Spaghetti Carbonara
Serves 4 to 6
Ingredients:
3 slices bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1/2 pound English peas, shelled (about 1 cup), or 1/2 cup frozen peas
1 pound spaghetti
4 ounces asparagus, sliced diagonally 1/8-inch thick (1 cup)
10 fresh basil leaves, sliced thin
5 eggs, whisked, at room temperature
2 tablespoons whole milk
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish (2 ounces)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add the bacon, cooking for about 5 minutes, until crispy. Transfer the cooked bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper towel and set aside. Return the pan with the rendered fat to the stove top for future use.
2. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Drop the peas into the water and cook them for 5 minutes. Transfer them to a strainer with a slotted spoon or a spider basket. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook for 10 minutes, or until al dente.
3. While the pasta cooks, heat the bacon fat in the sauté pan over medium heat. Add the peas and asparagus, and sauté for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in the basil, and set aside.
4. Whisk together the eggs and milk. Have the egg mixture, vegetables and bacon ready to toss with very hot pasta.
5. Quickly drain the pasta and transfer immediately to a large serving bowl. Pour the eggs and cheese on top of the pasta, and toss vigorously to coat the strands and gently cook the eggs, forming a creamy sauce. Add the vegetables and bacon, and continue tossing to incorporate them. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Portion the spaghetti on plates and ladle any sauce left in the bowl over each serving. Grate additional cheese on top if you like.
- Skinny 3-25-2009 9:29 pm [add a comment]