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"But the tradition continues. When Mr. Snyder was growing up, the cousins all worked at the store each summer. And last week, his cousin Ellen Smith seemed perfectly content to drop her fruit knife and wait on customers as Mr. Snyder sat and talked at the front of his store at 95 Orchard Street, between Delancey and Broome Streets. Despite his dedication to New York, his personal energy is mellow enough to qualify as Californian. The most worked up he got all day was over how many skins should go into the Black Grape Sorbet."