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Last night: a remarkable meal at Paul Liebrandt's (formerly of Atlas and Papillon) Gilt (housed in the former Le Cirque 2000 space in the New York Palace Hotel). It sometimes seems silly to talk about food, even more so when it is really good. But suffice it to say he manages to walk the razor's edge with his tasting menu, swerving from the opulent (table side service of a whole giant lobe of foie gras encrusted in a shiny shell of beet), to the sublime (a truly elevated use of spices reminding one how small our lexicon of these powerful adverbs has become.) Go if you can eat without check fear. Desserts and wine fail to live up to Liebrandt's cooking, so if not tasting and wine pairing, save on expenditure in theses departments. We went to Cru first to get our inebriation on (Gilt's list makes Cru seem like a dream bargain).