The 10 Best New Restaurants
By FRANK BRUNI
Published: December 26, 2007
1. MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR It’s tempting to choose something else, given how much acclaim has come to Momofuku’s chef and co-owner, David Chang. But Ssam Bar, which began full dinner service in January, deserves top honors for its inventive, flavor-packed dishes and its rebelliousness in dispensing with the trappings that usually accompany such sophisticated food.
2. SOTO If you love uni, you’ll find it pressed into more dishes and more creative uses at this small, sly Japanese restaurant than anywhere else.
3. (TIE) ANTHOS It looks a bit of a downer but the best of its food is exhilarating. This restaurant marks another determined step forward in Michael Psilakis’s quest to lift Greek cooking to new heights.
4. INSIEME Bolstered by the success of Hearth, Marco Canora took his assured Italian cooking uptown and upscale at this restaurant, which is notable as well for the terrific wine list of the co-owner Paul Grieco.
5. PARK AVENUE WINTER/SPRING/SUMMER/AUTUMN The name and décor, like the menu, change with the seasons, a gimmick that might grate if the cooking wasn’t so pleasing.
6. RESTO Head to this nouveau Belgian newcomer for deviled eggs on fried pork jowl, audaciously fatty lamb ribs and scores of fine beers.
7. 15 EAST The space vacated by Tocqueville became a credible, tranquil Japanese restaurant with especially fine sushi and sashimi.
8. ALLEN & DELANCEY An insanely romantic, cozy vibe is crucial to this dark hideaway’s appeal, but the chef Neil Ferguson’s refined Continental cooking also holds its own.
9. PAMPLONA This Spanish restaurant wasn’t all that much prettier than Ureña, which it replaced. But the same chef, Alex Ureña, produced some equally memorable food and made it more accessible.
10. MAI HOUSE By heading to TriBeCa and teaming with Drew Nieporent, the chef Michael Huynh got a more spacious, stylish stage for the kind of Vietnamese cooking he had been doing at Bao 111 in the East Villag
By FRANK BRUNI
Published: December 26, 2007
1. MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR It’s tempting to choose something else, given how much acclaim has come to Momofuku’s chef and co-owner, David Chang. But Ssam Bar, which began full dinner service in January, deserves top honors for its inventive, flavor-packed dishes and its rebelliousness in dispensing with the trappings that usually accompany such sophisticated food.
2. SOTO If you love uni, you’ll find it pressed into more dishes and more creative uses at this small, sly Japanese restaurant than anywhere else.
3. (TIE) ANTHOS It looks a bit of a downer but the best of its food is exhilarating. This restaurant marks another determined step forward in Michael Psilakis’s quest to lift Greek cooking to new heights.
4. INSIEME Bolstered by the success of Hearth, Marco Canora took his assured Italian cooking uptown and upscale at this restaurant, which is notable as well for the terrific wine list of the co-owner Paul Grieco.
5. PARK AVENUE WINTER/SPRING/SUMMER/AUTUMN The name and décor, like the menu, change with the seasons, a gimmick that might grate if the cooking wasn’t so pleasing.
6. RESTO Head to this nouveau Belgian newcomer for deviled eggs on fried pork jowl, audaciously fatty lamb ribs and scores of fine beers.
7. 15 EAST The space vacated by Tocqueville became a credible, tranquil Japanese restaurant with especially fine sushi and sashimi.
8. ALLEN & DELANCEY An insanely romantic, cozy vibe is crucial to this dark hideaway’s appeal, but the chef Neil Ferguson’s refined Continental cooking also holds its own.
9. PAMPLONA This Spanish restaurant wasn’t all that much prettier than Ureña, which it replaced. But the same chef, Alex Ureña, produced some equally memorable food and made it more accessible.
10. MAI HOUSE By heading to TriBeCa and teaming with Drew Nieporent, the chef Michael Huynh got a more spacious, stylish stage for the kind of Vietnamese cooking he had been doing at Bao 111 in the East Villag
the importance of being earest on tcm now
Apparently the first NY State record for Scott’s Oriole, in Union Square Park 1/24/08. Seen as early as 12/4/07, it was initially reported as an Orchard Oriole, but when photos were posted online yesterday experts suggested Scott’s, a southwestern species. 100+ birders showed up today and the bird was pretty cooperative, frequenting the plantings adjacent to the statue of Gandhi. It was generally held to be a Scott’s, though some thought it too small, and the lack of white tail tips could be cage wear, indicating an escapee, but everyone hopes it’s a legitimate bird. A lot of online analysis is apt to ensue.
The “Beer Kir” at Marco Moreira’s 15 East is a Japanese beer-based mixed drink: Sapporo is floated on a shot of honeyed sweet potato vinegar, adding a sweet-sour edge to the dry lager. For the purposes of home experimentation, we found Benímosu ($11.35 for 4 oz.), the same artisanal vinegar used in Beer Kir at Katagiri, a Japanese food store on 59th Street. Made in Kyoto from purple potatoes and koji rice, Benímosu has clean, rounded flavor that’s meant to be added to beer in a 1:5 ratio, which means a 4 ounce bottle of the stuff won’t even last a 6 pack. For more budget beer-vinegar drinks, Katagiri has a whole shelf of (mostly) fruit-based vinegar for cocktail mixing. There’s even one made from sake lees, the unfermentable dregs collected from the bottom of sake brewing tanks.
While the small store may not be decorated with antique fixtures or feature anything remotely resembling vintage, Katagiri’s grocery side (there’s an incense and kimono shop next door) has been in the same spot for 101 years, a piece of old New York food culture founded just 3 years before the cornerstone of the Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden was set in Astoria, and 7 whole years before Russ & Daughters started kicking the herring out of Houston Street. It’s worth a visit, even if the place doesn’t steep itself in self-conscious historicity, for hard-to-find fresh shiso, or to sample something from its tiny sushi counter. If you feel like hurting your mouth, pick up a small jar of Yuzu Kosho ($5.39), a super intense all-purpose condiment made from yuzu zest preserved in salt and chili pepper.
Katagiri & Co.
224 East 59th Street
(212) 755-3566
While the small store may not be decorated with antique fixtures or feature anything remotely resembling vintage, Katagiri’s grocery side (there’s an incense and kimono shop next door) has been in the same spot for 101 years, a piece of old New York food culture founded just 3 years before the cornerstone of the Bohemian Hall and Beer Garden was set in Astoria, and 7 whole years before Russ & Daughters started kicking the herring out of Houston Street. It’s worth a visit, even if the place doesn’t steep itself in self-conscious historicity, for hard-to-find fresh shiso, or to sample something from its tiny sushi counter. If you feel like hurting your mouth, pick up a small jar of Yuzu Kosho ($5.39), a super intense all-purpose condiment made from yuzu zest preserved in salt and chili pepper.
Katagiri & Co.
224 East 59th Street
(212) 755-3566
was microwaving up a bowl of lentil soup and i looked to the label for some advice on timing. no such advice was forthcoming. all it said was "please do not overcook." thanks a bunch, amy.
hi everyone!
Just want to invite you to some upcoming shows of mine
Feb 7- Andrew Kreps Gallery, NYC
March 13- The Hugh Lane Museum, Dublin
March 28- Gallery MinMIn, Tokyo
Not sure of the travel dates on the overseas shows, but if anyone wants to come, I can tell you the travel dates as soon as I know. Also email addresses to me, for my mailing list, if you can
omniroot at gmail.com
Just want to invite you to some upcoming shows of mine
Feb 7- Andrew Kreps Gallery, NYC
March 13- The Hugh Lane Museum, Dublin
March 28- Gallery MinMIn, Tokyo
Not sure of the travel dates on the overseas shows, but if anyone wants to come, I can tell you the travel dates as soon as I know. Also email addresses to me, for my mailing list, if you can
omniroot at gmail.com
fashion collective Number (N)ine just debuted their fall 08 men's collection, inspired by Portland. Funny, Steve left the house this morning in the exact same outfit.
suzanne pleshette died of cancer.
Northern Goshawk, immature, in Prospect Park 1/19/08.
idiomocracy:
posh -
When sailing from England to the eastern parts of the Empire (India etc) the north (port) side of the ship was more comfortable as it was shaded from the sun in the southern sky. When returning it was the starboard side that was to the north, shaded, and preferred by the passengers. Wealthy travelers could afford to pay extra for these preferences and therefore their baggage was marked P.O.S.H......Port Out Starboard Home.
posh -
When sailing from England to the eastern parts of the Empire (India etc) the north (port) side of the ship was more comfortable as it was shaded from the sun in the southern sky. When returning it was the starboard side that was to the north, shaded, and preferred by the passengers. Wealthy travelers could afford to pay extra for these preferences and therefore their baggage was marked P.O.S.H......Port Out Starboard Home.
Keep your shirt on! -
Shirts in the earlier days were rather expensive, so when a bloke was thinking of fighting someone he would take of his shirt. So if you had a grievance with a person and he began to take off his shirt (in other words, I don't want to fight with you.)
On the Democratic side, Clinton beat rival Barack Obama in a tight Nevada contest. She won the popular vote but Obama won more delegates. (???) I guess I need a civics lesson.
all ads are annoying but this one makes me laugh (for now) which makes it reasonably effective.
classic french cinema on ovation tonight - les enfants du paradis.
tv sports announcers are prone to hyperbole but broadcasters for the australian proclaimed yesterday as one of the most exciting in history. im not one to judge but blake federer and hewitt won five setters with hewitt, the hometown favorite, finishing up his 4hr 45min match at 445am melbourne time. and the arena was still filled to capacity.
ive never watched the aussie open because of the time difference and because im not prone to watching tennis in the winter. but if you can overcome these two obstacles coverage on espn2 generally begins at 7pm est.
ive never watched the aussie open because of the time difference and because im not prone to watching tennis in the winter. but if you can overcome these two obstacles coverage on espn2 generally begins at 7pm est.
Flavor Tripping
miracle fruit parties and sundry grub fests
mad flavor science
Flavor Tripping is an ongoing series of Bacchanalian food tasting smackdowns that occur about once a month, beginning in February ‘08 in NYC and SF. Our events are smallish affairs held in an undisclosed location - not (only) because we’re wanted international criminals, but because we dig switching things up and matching the spaces to the events we’re hosting. The first series of tastings center on miracle fruit (Sideroxylon dulcificum if you want to get all scientific about it), a cranberry-sized West African berry that that numbs your sour and bitter tastebuds for a couple of hours after eating it. That means that everything that used to taste sour now tastes sweet. Fo’ reals. It’s like a candy Willy Wonka would have invented - after eating one stout beers taste like chocolate milkshakes, grapefruits taste like pixie sticks, cheeses taste like frosting, it will make even the crappiest tequila taste like lemonade (and strangely enough, it will make all wine taste like Manischewitz).
So if you’d like to sign-up for the miracle fruit parties — there’ll be a banquet of food, beer, liquor, and beats provided by our resident DJ, plus damn good company — drop us a line at supreme@flavortripping.com. We’ll send out an email informing you of the next party.
…and or those of you who can’t make the parties, or just wanna experience the deliciousness on yer own, we’re also selling ye olde miracle fruit. Hit us up for more details and pricing.
supreme@flavortripping.com
Flavor Tripping is a ruthlessly-badass bastion of good taste. We throw parties w/ food. These parties are in NYC and SF. The parties are monkey loads of fun. These parties often include rare and exotic foods you ain’t gonna find in no dumpy bodega. The parties are run by a loose-knit-but-also-badass group of friends with much experience organizing large events in the states and abroad.
To receive e-mail updates on our next Miracle Fruit party, drop us a line at supreme@flavortripping.com. It’s worth it. Promise.
((what do you drink, what does it do to wine??))
miracle fruit parties and sundry grub fests
mad flavor science
Flavor Tripping is an ongoing series of Bacchanalian food tasting smackdowns that occur about once a month, beginning in February ‘08 in NYC and SF. Our events are smallish affairs held in an undisclosed location - not (only) because we’re wanted international criminals, but because we dig switching things up and matching the spaces to the events we’re hosting. The first series of tastings center on miracle fruit (Sideroxylon dulcificum if you want to get all scientific about it), a cranberry-sized West African berry that that numbs your sour and bitter tastebuds for a couple of hours after eating it. That means that everything that used to taste sour now tastes sweet. Fo’ reals. It’s like a candy Willy Wonka would have invented - after eating one stout beers taste like chocolate milkshakes, grapefruits taste like pixie sticks, cheeses taste like frosting, it will make even the crappiest tequila taste like lemonade (and strangely enough, it will make all wine taste like Manischewitz).
So if you’d like to sign-up for the miracle fruit parties — there’ll be a banquet of food, beer, liquor, and beats provided by our resident DJ, plus damn good company — drop us a line at supreme@flavortripping.com. We’ll send out an email informing you of the next party.
…and or those of you who can’t make the parties, or just wanna experience the deliciousness on yer own, we’re also selling ye olde miracle fruit. Hit us up for more details and pricing.
supreme@flavortripping.com
Flavor Tripping is a ruthlessly-badass bastion of good taste. We throw parties w/ food. These parties are in NYC and SF. The parties are monkey loads of fun. These parties often include rare and exotic foods you ain’t gonna find in no dumpy bodega. The parties are run by a loose-knit-but-also-badass group of friends with much experience organizing large events in the states and abroad.
To receive e-mail updates on our next Miracle Fruit party, drop us a line at supreme@flavortripping.com. It’s worth it. Promise.
((what do you drink, what does it do to wine??))
this looks nexflixable - paris, je t'aime.
I would like to believe this is self parody, only I don't think it is. Gawker.com says--"if Tom Cruise jumping on Oprah's couch was an 8 on the scale of scary, this is a 10." (I think the couch thing was a 6, I give this a 12.)
This is old news, but new to me, and I'm sorry but If you think I can resist posting this, you've got another think coming.
April 11 and 12 will find the Louisiana Superdome interior turned into a pink and red vagina -- "with a big vagina entrance..."
April 11 and 12 will find the Louisiana Superdome interior turned into a pink and red vagina -- "with a big vagina entrance..."
reasonably interesting and entertaining mockumentary on ifc at 7pm chronicling america had the confederacy won the civil war. its called C.S.A. - Confederate Sates of America.
hood whopper freak out
from the email bag ...
As part of your current Netflix subscription, you have the option to watch some movies and TV episodes from the Netflix library instantly on your PC at no additional charge. Now, we've made it unlimited!
So watch instantly on your PC when you want, and as often as you want. Select from our separate, smaller library of over 6,000 familiar movies and TV episodes available to watch instantly.
- Your friends at Netflix
i gave alice girl with big chicken for christmas. alex it reminds me of the painted photos you've done, which i've always said you should do more of. we have two of yours hanging in ryley's playroom and i love them.
